Left-Coast Cioppino

Cioppino is a San Francisco dish with Italian roots. A fisherman’s stew made of whatever is on hand after a long day on the water. There are many iterations in the Bay Area and everyone has their favorite.

I am partial to the thicker, deeper broths, as I am a sauce junkie and must have something to swab up with my sourdough bread (topped with  cold butter.) Gah! So good!

This time, I made it with a few spoonful’s of one of my favorite go- to ingredients: Napa Valley Rub from Whole Spice. I put this stuff in everything.) The spice mix added that extra flavor, depth and a bit of texture to the broth, and I was happy as a clam…

Speaking of clams, I used to use clam juice or veggie stock before I started making my own seafood stock. Now, I make it, cool, strain, portion and freeze it until I am making a chowder or stew. The process of stock making is very simple, and there is a satisfaction in being gracefully economical with “scraps”. You collect all your shrimp, crab, and or lobster shells, and you can freeze them until you are ready to make stock. I also sometimes have a freezer bag with bits of carrots, celery, onion etc. for making stock when I have the time. Give it a try. Here is a link to a rather comprehensive James Peterson piece on how to make your own shellfish stock, pictures included.

Recipe

Left-Coast Cioppino

Make the broth up to 2 days before. Like many things it gets better with a little time to let the flavors marry. Serves 6.

INGREDIENTS

  • 3 tbsp olive oil 
  • 1 large onion, diced 
  • 1 Bulb fennel, small, finely chopped 
  • 5 cloves garlic, minced 
  • 2 ribs celery, finely chopped 
  • 2 cups dry red or white wine 
  • 2 tsp smoked paprika 
  • 1 generous pinch hot pepper flakes 
  • 1-1 ½ tbsp Napa Valley Rub or 1 tsp rosemary chopped 
  • Zest of 1 lemon 
  • 1 tsp garlic powder 
  • 1 tsp fennel seeds 
  • 1 bay leaf 
  • 3 cups seafood or fish stock, or clam juice (see above about making your own stock) 
  • 28 oz can chopped tomatoes with juices 
  • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 
  • Salt and pepper
  • 20 clams, rinsed 
  • 12 oz Pacific cod fillets 
  • 15-20 mussels, debearded and scrubbed 
  • 1 whole cooked Dungeness crab, cleaned and cut into quarters 
  • 1 lb wild caught shrimp in the shell 
  • 1 cup Italian parsley leaves, chopped 
  • 1 French baguette

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Cook the onion, fennel, celery and garlic until soft – not browned. Add paprika, hot pepper flakes, napa Valley Rub or other herbs, bay leaf and stir for 30 seconds. Add wine and simmer till reduced by half, about 7-10 minutes. Add tomatoes and stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in Worcestershire. Let cool. 
  2. When cool enough to handle, remove the bay leaf and carefully puree ½ of sauce in a blender or with an immersible blender, then add back to the pot. 
  3. At this point, keeping in mind that the seafood will add salt when it is added, correct spices and seasoning and either keep warm or refrigerate up to 2 days until ready to make stew. 
  4. When ready, reheat broth over a low heat until hot. Add clams mussels, and crab, and cover the pot and steam until clams are opened (about 10 Minutes). After 5 minutes, add fish and shellfish. Cook everything until the shrimp are pink, and everything is hot. 
  5. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Discard all the mussels and clams that didn’t open – they are bad. 
  6. Scatter parsley over stew. Serve with lemon wedges, hot sourdough baguette, and butter.

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